Vacation in Zambia

We found a little window for vacation a couple weeks ago.  The Biedebachs are back in the country now, Rachel’s not TOO pregnant yet, and Abi was still 2 (read that as “free admission, room and board”).  So with still-valid multiple entry visas to Zambia, we jumped at the chance to see one of the best game parks in southern Africa: South Luangwa.

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All packed and ready to go!  We’re used to camping here in Africa, but we decided to do this trip a little differently.  With border crossings, an unknown location in a foreign country, and pregnancy at 6 1/2 months, we decided to ride on a 15 passenger bus with 11 strangers and stay in a lodge.

Zambia A

The lodge we stayed at had stone and canvas chalets.  It was a cute little place, complete with our own bathroom and room enough to add an extra bed for Abigail.

Zambia C

One of the lodge staff would use this drum to call us all to meals.  Once Abi showed up, his job was in jeopardy! =)  As a side note, the trees right behind Abi are part of the lodge property, and the trees in the background are across the Luangwa River, actually in the national park.  We sat on the edge several times a day and watched baboons, impala, puku, crocodiles, and lots of hippos.  We were so close to the park that at night we had to be escorted from our chalet to the lodge for dinner because elephant regularly walk through the grounds foraging for yummy trees and fruit.

Zambia B

The lodge took good care of us.  Most meals were served in the open-air lodge, but one day for lunch they put us all out under the trees on the river’s edge – truly dining al fresco.

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On to the safaris… South Luangwa has some of the best game viewing in southern Africa.  We’ve read lots of different claims, but it’s something like the largest variety of game in the smallest amount of time/area.  We discovered a little late in the trip that we didn’t have the greatest guide, but we were still able to see a lot of animals on our 2 morning and 2 night safaris.

Zambia 02

By “morning safari,” they meant “wake up at 5am.”  This was a little much for Abigail, who would crawl out of her bed and straight into our bed!  But that grin should tell you that she wasn’t missing a thing and would be in the Land Rover as soon as possible!

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 And by “night safari,” they meant “it’s very dark and you can only see what the spotlight will let you see.”  South Luangwa is one of only a handful of parks that allows night drives, but it was on the night drives that we saw lion and leopard!

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We weren’t sure what we were going to do with Abi while on safari drives.  We’ve been practicing using a normal or quiet voice, but she really likes to talk loudly – especially if she sees an impala, her favorite animal.  So we thought we’d take her on the first morning drive and see how she did.  As it turned out, we were put in a safari vehicle with 4 college students from southern California, and I’m pretty sure they made more noise than Abi did, so it was all good!  We did end up leaving her with a babysitter for the first night drive, and then Rachel stayed back with her for the second night drive.  Baby Flo 2.0 had had enough of all those bumpy roads…

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We saw sunrise and sunset from the back of an open Land Rover.  Even without animals in sight, this is an amazingly beautiful park.

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But animals we did see!  Giraffe, impala, puku, warthog, elephant, guinea hens, lilac breasted rollers, waterbuck, leopard, lion, hyena, genet, mongoose, serval, monitor lizard, crocodile, hippo, baboons, monkeys, Cape buffalo, love birds… I’ll bet you had to look a couple of those animals up. =)  We did too!  And if you want to see more animals – the professional shots – check out Matt’s Flickr page.  He has already posted 35 pictures from our first 2 safari drives, with more from drives 3 & 4 coming in the next couple weeks.  Seriously, they’re good, and I (Rachel) will shamelessly promote it on this blog!  =)

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Speaking of photographers, we apparently have another one in the family.  Abigail took this picture of Matt setting up a shot on the river’s edge.

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And she’s learning how to track animals.  Give her a few more years and we won’t need to hire a guide any more.  She’s already an expert at tracking hippos.

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Matt recorded our safari routes on GPS, and we were surprised to discover that we’d covered only about 1% of the park during all 4 safari drives we were on.  I can’t imagine how many more animals there are out there…  Abigail was eager to see as many as possible, so kept encouraging our driver to go faster!

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But every once in a while, a 30 second nap was required to keep her going.

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All in all, it was a good trip.  Lots of photos, good family time, and we came home saying “that was good, but it’s also good to be home” – the sign of a good vacation.

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Happy safaris to the rest of you!

That’s Cheating

I got a ticket.  A speeding ticket.  I have NEVER gotten a speeding ticket before in my entire life, in any country, ever.  I actually like obeying the speed limit!  But if I had to get a ticket, I’d much rather get one in Malawi than in America.  The traffic cops pull drivers over all the time here, so I’m used to being pulled over here.  Almost every time I drive.  Not that they have cars or sirens or anything – they just stand in the street and wave you to the side of the road.  Usually they just want to check your license and registration tags, but not this time.  I got caught in a speed trap.

Cheating 4

But this speed trap was not supposed to be there.  I was about 2 kilometers (1 mile) outside of town. The traffic laws say that you must drive 50kph (30mph) in town or in a market area, but 100kph (60mph) on the open road.  [But realistically, you can’t ever get up enough momentum to drive faster than about 80kph (50mph) while you try to avoid hitting people, bicycles, goats, cows, pigs, children, pot holes, etc.]

Cheating 2

The traffic cop pulled me over and told me I was clocked going 71kph (43mph).  Not possible.  I was following a slow, small truck packed with about 15 people in the back, so I was hanging back to make sure I didn’t hit anyone who fell out.  I was matching the small truck’s speed and keeping my distance, but the cops didn’t pulled over the truck I was following – just me.  I felt like I was getting a ticket because I was white, since many white people here just pay whatever as long as the cops will leave them alone.  This made me sad, and a little upset at seeing sinfulness and corruption multiply in this country I love.  I realized that sitting in my car being charged with speeding was not the place to argue with sinfulness and corruption, so I just left it.  Besides, there was another issue at play here.  I was on the open road, outside of town, and not near a market. Thus, the speed limit should be 100kph.

Cheating 6

Oh no, he informed me.  Just last month the city had moved the boundaries of town.  Now, town extended all the way to a corner 9 kilometers “outside of town.” I was in the “new part of town” that looked like open road and was still sign-posted as being outside of town.  I looked at him for a couple of seconds, not really believing this was happening.  And then I remembered I was in Africa.  I’m not normally so bold, but to my surprise I blurted out “You can’t give people tickets if you haven’t changed the road signs. That’s cheating!”

“That’s cheating! That’s cheating! That’s cheating Abi!” says Abi, the little myna bird in the back seat.

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Oh dear.  Thankfully, the officer laughed with me.

Cheating 3

I did pay the ticket and go on my way.  However, I will tell you that  everything above this current paragraph was written back in January when this incident actually happened.  I wrote it and set it aside, because I was still frustrated by the whole incident.  I felt like I couldn’t post this on the blog while I was still dealing with it in my heart.  My American sense of justice was irked by the obvious inconsistency and corruption I experienced that day.  But as a believer, I needed to step back and consider what my role really is at times like these.  When I have opportunity, I should do justice (Micah 6:8, Proverbs 21:3).  I am also called to submit to the authority God has placed over me (Romans 13:1-2), including policemen who aren’t practicing justice.  Doing justice feels good.  Submitting to corrupt authority doesn’t feel good.  But I am called to do both.  That’s what I needed to work out in my heart – how to submit to authority, even if they are not treating me justly (as long as they’re not forcing me to sin).  And that’s what I need to remember as I live in a context that frequently puts this dilemma before me.

It’s good for my heart to live here.  Situations like this help me translate my formal theology into godly behavior.